6. Adjust air supply of integrated air compressor to 8-12 P.S.I. This is factory preset, however, due to freight handling settings may be compromised.
7. Inspect flame length through inspection door located above burner gun assembly. End of flame should reach no further than ½ way down combustion tube. To accomplish this flame length, use adjustment knob on opposite side of oil pump. NEVER ATTEMPT TO START HEATER WHEN COMBUSTION CHAMBER IS HOT AND A DELAYED START OCCURS.
8. Proper Draft: Draft Adjustment is accomplished by using the factory supplied gauge. For proper operation, the draft is to set between .02 and .06 on the negative scale. Rarely in the unlikely event the draft is rushing through the heater and out the stack at a higher rate, a barometric damper may be necessary to slow the draft down to appropriate parameters.
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Annual Maintenance: Replace nozzle every 3-5 years depending on usage. Will lose efficiency due to erosion. This can be accessed by swinging burner door open.
Due to erosion, adjustment may change.
CAUTION: TURN OFF MAIN ELECTRIC SUPPLY SWITCH BEFORE CHECKING OR ADJUSTING ELECTRODE SETTING.
MONTHLY (Recommended) --- clean stainless strainer in pre-filter periodically and drain off any water accumulation. Every application is different and may vary depending on contamination of oils being used.
Oil Valve: energizes when burner is running and de-energizes when burner is not running eliminating bleed back of oil out of the Pre-heater block.
Igniter Transformer: Supplies high voltage to the electrodes generating electrical arc igniting the oil.
Remove combustion chamber & heat exchanger clean out panels at same side of lift out door panel on heater and vacuum out the accumulated ash & soot.
Remove the four hex head screws holding the outer pump cover. Be careful to not upset the gasket during removal. Remove the filter element. Clean all components. Reverse the steps to reassemble.
Take the three alan screws off of the housing to remove the end plate. Check the carbon plate behind it for any chips, cracks or worn areas. If any are found this must be replaced first before proceeding further. Secondly, remove each carbon vane individually. Check each one for chips, breaks or cracks. If there is any damage they will need to be replaced with a new set. If no damage is detected reverse your steps by putting the carbon vanes and plate back in place. Then secure the end plate with the alan screws until they are finger tight. Start the unit to ensure you have the correct air pressure before tightening completely. Also be sure to not over tighten.
Using a 5/16 socket end wrench or flathead screwdriver loosen the screw on the upper left side of the burner. Once the screw is loose tilt the transformer back so it's fully open to access the pre-heater block. Then remove the oil and air lines from the back side of the pre-heater block. Unscrew the wire nut from the blue and black wires that go to the heat rod. In the electrical box remove the red wire from the snap switch off of the terminal block. Remove the pipe cap from the outer left side of the housing that is securing the pre-heater block in place. Be sure to not drop the washer on the inside of the housing. Carefully remove the pre-heater block from the burner housing making sure to unscrew the thermal couple from the pre-heater block before setting it to the side. Reverse your steps to get the pre-heater block back in to place.
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